BYO and barefoot-friendly, Chiosco by Ormeggio is a real Italian trattoria by the sea with stunning views
'Terry Durack tastes the new normal at Chiosco by Ormeggio'
Terry Durack Review, May 26/2020, Good Food
'Restaurants are back....
So here I am, kicking off my first review in a couple of months at Chiosco (kee-oss-koh), the casual seaside baby brother of Ormeggio in Mosman. Why here? Because being perched at a table on a pier surrounded by blue water and boats is as far away from my apartment as I can get.
Because I can forget all about closed borders and pretend I'm on an overseas holiday. Because the Ormeggio team is up and running in part to support their Italian visa-holding staff through a difficult time. But mainly because I can.
Oh, the joy of having someone bring a cocktail to the table who isn't me. Why does this negroni ($18) taste so much better than any I've made in the past three months? Because someone else made it. And made it beautifully, I might add.
It's designed for maximum comfort, from the just-baked crusty cushions of focaccia with whippy ricotta to the you-guessed-it tiramisu, delivered in a perfect log of boozy, creamy sweetness.
It's all good, and sometimes great. Their vitello tonnato is the stuff of dreams, the tuna cream perfectly judged, dotted with explosions of deep-fried capers, parsley oil and toasty pine nuts.
Salt-and-pepper calamari is done with delicacy and restraint. A big bowl of spaghetti is a tangle of lightly cooked prawns in a bisque-like sauce, leavened by diced zucchini and the warm bite of chilli...."